lucky, lucky me.

As luck would have it, my first trip to the Houston Urban Harvest Farmer's market was a good one.

I am lucky to live in a place where a traditionally summer-friendly find like squash blossoms are still available as late as October. I found just the right thing to go with these beautiful babies. I picked up a tub of fresh goat cheese from the Blue Heron farm booth, and some Nisha's Quick N Ezee Indian Food after a tasty sample and I was on my way.


If you find squash blossoms, I suggest you try this:

• Spoon a bit of soft, fresh goat cheese on a medium-sized basil leaf. Prepare 10 of these.
• Make sure all squash blossoms are well-washed. You don't want any grit.
• Carefully open 1 squash blossom; place stuffed basil leaf inside blossom. Press gently to seal. Repeat with remaining basil leaves and squash blossoms.
• Heat vegetable oil in a medium heavy saucepan over medium-high heat until it registers 365 degrees on a deep-fry thermometer.
• Put eggs and cornmeal in separate small bowls. Season the cornmeal with salt and pepper.
• Dip 1 stuffed blossom into the eggs, then into the cornmeal to coat.
• Fry in batches of 2 to 3 until golden, about 1 1/2 minutes. Transfer to paper towels and allow them to cool a bit.
• Enjoy!

corn and peaches in my sink.

I want one!

Goodbye Detergent has come up with a good alternative to the stinky sponge.

They look a bit like spaghetti, but are in fact, made out of corn cobs and peach pits. These materials dry completely, so they are cleaner and last longer.
The best part - they really don't require soap! They scour on their own, and can be used with a small amount of detergent for really tough jobs.

Wish I had thought of that.

Oregon

The last days of summer just evaporated like the condensation on my iced tea glass.

It is amazing to see what can happen when the heat is not oppressive. I saw peonies blooming in a natural environment. I saw fir trees as tall as mountains. I soaked up up up the sunshine on an eighty degree day when everyone we ran into swore it was unseasonably hot. Perhaps the heat is getting to our heads here in Texas. Perhaps everyone here is just that nice. They all seem to be champions of their way of life and their environment.

This place is special.

Portland, Oregon

When you go to Portland, I suggest you do the following:

- Check into the Ace Hotel. I may not actually cool enough to stay here, but I thoroughly enjoyed it. The custom logo Pendleton wool blanket kept me cozy on chilly nights and the stumptown coffee in the lobby made me pine for it after we left.

- Eat lunch at the Clyde Common. Busy, but friendly staff man the lunch-room-like tables serving dishes like baked eggs with creamy polenta or albacore tuna confit with wax beans and cherry tomatoes.

- You MUST eat dinner at Beast. The tiny dining room is shared with the open kitchen so you can watch Naomi Pomeroy as she carefully prepares the plates for the evening. The decor is a mix of necessity, with a bakers rack full of books and glassware, and whimsy, with a chalkboard wall with quotes like "Life expectancy would grow by leaps and bounds if green vegetables smelled like bacon" and "If we aren't supposed to eat animals then why are they made out of MEAT?" Everything about this meal was comforting and easy and deliciously high-brow at the same time. Here is one of the best-looking and best-tasting plates I have ever had.

- If I won the lottery, I might just fly my private plane to Portland to eat at Ken's Artisan Pizza. They put something in that crust. It might be drugs. It might be love. It is positively intoxicating. If you could mass-produce it, it might make a really good anti-depressant. If you could mass-produce it, it probably wouldn't be Ken's.

- Pine. State. Biscuits. Got it? Do you need me to say it again? Would you like me to spell it for you? Do you need the address? Don't let the line out the door scare you. It moves fast, and it would be worth it even if it didn't. The fried green tomatoes are good too, but don't you dare skimp on the biscuits and gravy.

- Le Pigeon. I think our group had mixed reviews because of a few kitchen mix-ups, but I still have to mention this place. My bacon apricot cornbread dessert with maple ice cream (and big fat pieces of bacon on top) was memorable. The Beef Cheek Bourguignon was simple and perfect. The frog legs with gnocchi were on time, maybe even a few minutes early.

- I can't believe that I can't have Pok Pok again until I go back. It really doesn't seem fair. Or legal. If Thailand can export that flavor to SE Division, why can't they export to Houston? I cleaned my plate (or my pot actually) and then ate whatever my fellow diners had left. They have bottled everything that is warm and lovely about life and poured it over the top of the Kaeng Hung Leh. I just don't know what else to tell you.

A few more notes about Portland...

See the coast. You will not regret it.

The men are all friendly. There are also a lot of moustaches.

If you go to the wine country, make an appointment at Brick House. I am pretty sure they make magic there.

PS - I have to send a little shout out to Leif for all of his fabulous suggestions. I felt like I had the insider scoop the whole way through.

drought

The United States Department of Agriculture has a way of monitoring drought. They have labels for certain conditions, ranging from "Abnormally Dry" all the way to "Exceptional Drought". Welcome to "Exceptional Drought".

There has been a drought with my words and writing too, to say the least.

What can I say? I have always been a travelin' gal, even when I stay in the same place.

There is plenty of food that you eat when you travel, and then there is travelin' food.

It can be the granola bar and starbucks coffee consumed in my uber-yuppie volvo in the morning. It can be the order of ultra fried fast food picked up late at night. It can be a sandwich in a ziploc bag a la Mom. It can be the best thing you have ever tasted or your worst enemy in a bite.

Do we consume more food in our cars than we consume at home at our kitchen tables (or in front of our televisions)? The answer is a resounding yes. So why not, in the heat of the summer, dedicate a little of this ol' blog to the subject of road food.

With a state as big as Texas... I cannot begin to identify all the famous spots. I can only tell you what I know, what I like, what you should avoid...

All-time best drive-through: Player's in Austin, Texas

I know I am not the only fan of this place, but where else can you get a fried veggie combo basket at 3 am in the morning? I have to admit, I have been here more times in the dark than in the middle of the day... but it is damn good. Just make sure you wait for the fried mushrooms to cool, lest you burn your tongue. The shakes and burgers are fantastic too. There have been rumors about the larger businesses nearby buying the lot or tearing the restaurant down, but the outcry from devotees has won out so far. I hope this institution is still there when my offspring leave home to spend 4 or 5 or 6 years in Austin like I did. So there you have it.

All-time best pit stop on I-35: Czech Stop in West, Texas

I know, I know... this is also not news... but really, with a state as big as ours, and with all the driving we do, name one better. Where else can you get a full tank of unleaded and a dozen kolaches that taste good straight out of the fridge or even better after 10 seconds in the microwave? Everything from the clean restrooms to the old-school "Y'all come back now"... I really can't find a reason to knock this place.

All-time best jerky from a gas station: Buc-ee's in everywhere, Texas

I don't really want to think about the fact that I have tried just about every jerky out there. I will admit it - I have snapped into a Slim Jim. I have also had (when it is bestowed upon me) venison jerky from my dear old dad made fresh from the processing plant. There are highs and lows in the world of jerky. The meat case at Buc-ee's is certainly something to behold. The brand stinkin-new Buc-ee's on I-10 in Luling, TX has quite a selection of turkey, buffalo, elk, venison, and of course, beef jerkies (jerkys?). All are delicious, tender, well-seasoned and perfect for the road or otherwise.

One to skip: Woody's Smokehouse in Centerville, Texas

It's fine for gas and Dr. Pepper, but really, skip the meat case at this well-known establishment. I guess all the folks that stop here haven't had the Buc-ee's version. Or my dad's.

All-time best river food: peanut butter and jelly

Weeeeelll, I know this one might be a stretch, but really, if you aren't travelin on the river, then what the hell else are ya doin? Call it the redneck riviera if you wish, but floating the river is an institution here in Texas, and a day on the river, is a day well spent. I was recently introduced to a really experienced floater with his own method for ensuring maximum success with pb&j river style. This can be acheived by bagging the multiple sandwiches in the bag the bread came in not once, but TWICE. The squished but not soggy sandwich might just be the best thing for you. Trust me, eat the sandwich.

sausages and beer. and other good things.

Hello out there. I am not really going to tell you why I think sausages and beer are good, because I think they speak for themselves.

I will tell you about my quest for the perfect dog, however. I know that some people would argue with me that a sausage is not a hot dog, and that a hot dog is far from a sausage, and I take your point. I understand... But really, if you eat it on a hot dog bun, I want to compare it. I want to find the tastiest bestest one. There are some out there that are in the running... That classic but natural dog from Dogma in Miami is pretty awesome. DO NOT skip the garlic fries. That Dog-man-du guy in Rosemary Beach Florida is great, but it could have something to do with the hunger you feel after a long day at the beach. And, I know purists who want a hot dog and not a sausage might not agree, but Wurstkuche in Los Angeles kind of knocked my socks off. I will let you know when I find the winner... but for now, I just grilled sausages and drank beer in my own back yard. Aren't you glad spring is here?

One thing I really discovered this month that you MUST try is the shandy. I found a recipe and made mine with the yummiest ingredients around and added some mint. Delicious!

- Hoegaarden Beer

- Reed's Extra Ginger Beer

- Lemon wheel

- Mint leaves (do not crush)

- Serve to taste over ice

cold

While I slept, the world became cold again. There were bits of frost on the roof this morning. While I was away, my kitchen became cold again. It is spotless and clean. Another new blank canvas.

A bit of winter in the middle of spring does nothing but remind me. It reminds me that I physically need the sunshine and the warm days.

If it remains cold, where will the peaches and the grapefruit come from? Summer I need you. Please do not stay away too long.

Summer, I need you for so many reasons. I need to know that there will be a reprieve from daily life and work. I need to know that there will days spent in flip flops and no remorse. I need you for the sandy beach bags and sweaty upper lip.

Summer, I need you for the tomatoes and the vidalia onions. Summer, I need you for the sweet drippy watermelon and the juicy cherries. I need you for the okra and their slimy insides. I need you for the blackberries and the stained tips of my fingers.

Summer, I need you. Please do not stay away too long.

basic luxury

When I woke up, I didn't know that it would be a perfect day.

I rolled out of bed after sleeping in a bit. My room was still dark and I was well-rested. There was hot coffee already in the pot ready for me. I soaked it all up.

It was a little bit gloomy and a little bit cloudy outside. But it was good.

We drove to the edge of the city, all the way to the coast. Malibu is literally on the edge of our nation, looking over the most breathtaking views and beaches. The Getty Villa, perched there on prime real estate, houses innumerable treasures. One of the treasures that impressed me the most were the gardens and the outdoor spaces. Sitting there on a bench, drinking in the California sun, imagining an Italian sun shining down so many years ago... it makes you think about living simply. Were the Romans and Greeks who pursued pleasure and enjoyed folly so wrong? I bet that I get more done in a day.

Leaving the palace on the hill, we carved out our path up the beach until we reached a much more humble destination. Malibu Seafood is not much more than a room and kitchen with a view. The surly staff will help you out with a pre-order by phone, but this is two things: a market, and a restaurant. You better get in line, and know what you want, and get out of the way. We found out that the pre-order is really the way to go when you are interested in oysters. Is a dozen for each of us enough? Three dozen it is. Oh, and do you shuck them? Oh, I see... oh, okay, well then we will buy a knife.

Oysters and I go way back. We are like "this" (fingers crossed) but I have to admit... I have never learned how to shuck one. I could be making this into more than it is, but I feel different now that I can harvest all the sweet juicy insides from the oyster shell myself. Sitting in an air-conditioned bar while someone else cracks open those little beauties is the ultimate luxury. Or is it?

Is having a relationship with your food essential? Or is not having one?

Is food just another check in the box? Sustenance is simply that - just something you need to keep going. Fuel for the fire. Is it easier for all of us to avoid that whole exchange? We all make time to eat. Who makes time to taste? Who makes time to breathe it in? Are there those who would prefer not to even if given the opportunity?

The dirt and grit collecting under my fingernails became a part of the process. The oyster knife is not too sharp, but one wrong turn and you have gouged yourself in the other hand. Searching on the back-end of the oyster is a little bit like feeling for a light switch in the dark. You are in the right vicinity, but you must feel along the walls to get there. The oyster knife became my key to the hidden treasure, still bathing in the moisture from the sea, and I just kept waiting for my turn to use it again.

The sore spots on my hands became a bit numb, but the salt soaked into my skin and made it tough. Resting in between to wipe the sweat and the beer from my upper lip, the shells kept piling up on the plastic tray. Occasionally borrowing from the paper boat full of lemon wedges, the day became a bit more perfect with every crack and slurp. Is it any coincidence that the noises one makes are so primal when eating these wild and raw food?

The day made me feel alive. Soaking up the experience, the sun, the salt and the taste made me feel connected to a deeper and more basic part of myself, and it certainly made me feel more connected to one of my favorite foods.

Lord knows... these are humble beginnings

There is a tradition in the making here. Upon the birth and arrival of new babies it is customary to bring gifts of food. Upon the arrival of new babies in my group of friends there is another subsequent arrival: The delivery of fried chicken.

When I think of my friends at home making their way through parenthood and domesticity, something makes me want to fly my comfort food flag. There are few foods as perfect and as happy as fried chicken. Let's be honest, I like to waive that flag quite often anyway. For me, fried chicken is the ultimate comfort, so naturally, I want to share my greatest contentment with those that I love.

Maybe my friends are just having babies for the chicken now... probably not.

It may be inappropriate, now that lent has also begun and we can all shed the wretched parts of ourselves this time of year. We are shedding the darkness this weekend too and we spring forward into the real beginning of warmer months and the growing season. But this calls for celebration! Fried chicken is absolutely on the top of my list of indulgences. Save the ice cream sundae. Leave the pies and cakes for someone who truly cares for them. Do I dare say it? Yes, it is better than chocolate.

It is at the top of the list when it is soaked in buttermilk and goodness. Sprinkle in some sort of secret recipe - everyone has one - and shake in a good ol' paper bag full of flour and other spices. It is at the top of the list when it is crispy and cracklin hot on the outside and the perfect temperature on the inside. This might come as a surprise, but it is not at the top of my list when my hands feel heavy with grease after feasting upon it. We are not talking KFC here, this is another category of food. We are talking about a pristine white chicken breast on the inside of a perfect shell of texture and taste. There is oil present, but not greasy greasy grease. Behold the blank canvas before you... the perfect white paper towel to soak up all the oil that you might shed and leave behind.

It may be inappropriate to weave religion into my discussion of fried chicken. But here I go anyway. Did I lose you? If not, welcome back to the adventure that you can take over and over again.

The landscape of your kitchen may take new shape. This is normal. Do not be alarmed. There is an assembly line that will make itself known. Go with it. Leave the sophisticated equipment behind.

There many denominations among fried chicken followers. There are those who dabble. There are fancy recipes out there. There are the briners. There are the oven-roasted "fried" fans. There are the cornmeal enthusiasts. There are the double-dippers. There are those who prefer it hot out of the fryer. There are those who like it cold out of the fridge. There are those who do not like it at all. This blog entry is not meant to be an ecumenical meeting of these camps. This is just one follower's opinion.


Through time, practice, patience, and experience, I have learned these things:

• Begin with quality ingredients - in life, and in work, and especially in frying chicken.
• Pay attention to the road map and the warning signs. Trust your senses and your taste. Learn from mistakes and remedy them.
• Don't blow your top. Let your thermometer hover around a constant temperature.
• Love what you are doing. Project your joy into the product you create. It tastes better that way.
• Clean up as you go, but don't fret.
• Always turn the music up. Loud.
• Get your hands dirty.

If you actually want to use my recipe instead of making up your own, here it is:

Prepare your marinade in a jug or pitcher so it can be poured into giant gallon size ziploc bags.

Mix about a gallon (plus) of real buttermilk, (about a cup) of Dijon mustard, a few tablespoons of onion powder, salt, dry mustard, cayenne (use sparingly!), freshly ground pepper, and my secret ingredient - mild curry. The curry should also be used sparingly... but it provides an earthy flavor. No one should be able to guess that it is in there.

Situate your chicken pieces in their respective bags and pour in the goodness. Turn bag to coat chicken evenly. Refrigerate overnight or up to 24 hours.

When preparing to fry, put all the battering elements into a brown paper bag. Add about 1 tablespoon of baking powder in for every 3 cups of flour (this makes for crispier chicken). Again, add the quality ingredients - I grind fresh pepper directly into the flour until I can see the specks evenly disseminated. Use your best judgment on the salt and don't overdo it. The coating mixture can also be spiced up with to taste. The key here is not just the first pass at the coating... there must be a period of rest and then a second trip into the buttermilk marinade and then the last baptism by flour. The longer you let the chicken pieces rest in between the better your chances are of an even and crispy exterior.

I use 100% peanut oil because of the higher tolerance for heat. Any and all containers are acceptable, as long as they are deep enough, but I use my favorite cast-iron braising dish. It stretches across two burners for maximum heat and is deep enough to fry 4-5 pieces at a time.

Heat oil over medium-high heat to 350°F. Use a thermometer to be sure.

Use your best judgement on timing here. Once you throw your first batch in readjust heat to 300-325 degrees. Smaller pieces like wings and drumsticks may only need 7-9 minutes, while big thighs and breasts could take as long as 20.

Don't forget to let it cool. Enjoy.

starters. and sides. part 2.

I want to be a foodie when I grow up.

Tartare. Simple.

There is something terribly simple about regular good quality tasty tartare. There is something terribly complicated about the recipe I am about to expound upon.

Any monkey can make a tartare. Let's examine the process: Finely chop raw meat or fish, add any array of seasonings, spices, and perhaps a bit of oil. There are a thousand different varieties of steak, tuna, salmon tartares, and although there are plenty of good and bad, let's not dwell on that too much here.

What I want to spend some time on here is something along the lines of salmon (and tuna) tartare served in cornets with creme fraiche. The degree of simplicity of the filling of these tiny little savory cones is obvious... the cornets themselves demand quite a bit of your attention. Let's be honest. This is not for the casual evening at home. If you are serving something that requires it own special tray for proper appearance, chances are you need a special occasion.

I would never have been inspired to try this if it hadn't been for my travels. I would never have tried this if it weren't for the perfect gift of The French Laundry cookbook I received for Christmas. I would never have been able to accomplish this if it weren't for my resourceful friend and her catering-company-owning boyfriend who had just the right tray and cone-shaped cups. And I would like to thank the academy... oh, ahem.

There are entire websites devoted to the real-life applications of Thomas Keller's recipes. There is no reason to repeat the recipe here.

All I really want to say is that it is all worth it. The tips of my fingers will never be the same after this recipe, and neither will my tastebuds. The pure piece-by-piece tasting of this little perfect cone is just worth every bit of the swearing and sweating and folding the batter in front of the open oven door. This recipe reminds you of what Thomas Keller has built his restaurants upon, all that is so so refined, while still so comfortable.

There is something really indulgent about this recipe. This is not comfort food. This is fancy food. It doesn't make you feel the same as the afternoon spent chopping and mincing and the satisfying stew that results from your efforts. Instead, you feel that maybe... in spite of yourself... in spite of your insufficient experience, and low-brow cookware, you could be a foodie too.

PS - I have still not joined a gym.

PPS - "Tartare my boy!" (That was for you Dad.)

starters. and sides. part 1.

Can someone turn back the clock? I am still in the rough draft stage of my new year's resolutions.

To do list:

- Be on time for work
- Don't be a gossip
- Use more fresh ingredients
- Join a gym and use it
- Go on or schedule more "date nights"
- Recycle more
- Organize and streamline my house and my routine
- Save more $
- Pay more attention to my dog
- Blog more


Uh oh. So far I have only accumulated a HUGE pile of recycling in my garage that I fully intend to take to the drop-off site.

The truth is that I don't believe in all that anyway. Resolutions are just a chance for you to feel extra guilty about falling into your old bad habits. I hate January. January is just the month when everyone wants to catch up and be good to make themselves feel better. Everyone is on their high horse. Everyone is on their blackberry. Everyone wants something from you... a project, a check in the box, a just-checking-in-on-that... Everybodys talking at me... I can't here a word they're saying...

I hate January. The truth is, that January is not a feel good month. The sky grows dark early every evening. Extra pounds and soft muscles from the holidays and beyond cling to your body the same as always. The realization of the generosity you may have not been able to afford during Christmas greets you in the form of your bank statement. Everyone already feels guilty with the added concern of the ever-so-slowly slipping list of new resolutions. Admit failure, dammit.

I don't really believe in the good luck properties of black-eyed peas. (Although that doesn't mean I don't eat them every new year's day.) I'd like to believe that I have a chance to improve on myself every day. And I do, really.

Perhaps I should just stop complaining and hit the damn "publish" button more to fulfill the last action item on my list. But let's start from the beginning. There will be a few stops and starts here, since it has been a while. There will be room for all of it... but let's take a break in between. You can't eat all this at once anyway.

I never liked barbecue as a child. I never liked the way that people smothered it in sauce. I never liked the way that everything on the plate had to touch. I never liked the unfamiliar elements of these composed potato salads and cole slaw. I never liked it when people spelled it like "BBQ". That is not a word, by the way - that is a collection of consonants.

I never really appreciated barbecue as a child, and perhaps I never had the right kind. There is a barbecue awakening going on in Texas as of late. The Texas Monthly list of top barbecue joints in our great state was published in June of 2008. I know lots of devotees who have tried a many places on the list. I know that there are a lot of deserving establishments out there... but I also know that the judges never visited Hard Eight. I know that it is technically a chain, with shops open in Brady and Stephenville too, but the Coppell addition is well worth a visit. Don't let the office park vibe surrounding it fool you. The smell of the pit will beckon you in from the parking lot.

As any good barbecue place should, this one revolves around the meat. The format is casual, so when you get your turn, you pick out your favorites directly from the pit and pay for it by the weight. Some measurements are predetermined. You cannot get half of a rib-eye or a pork chop, for example, and really, why would you want to? At this point, I have had a bite of all the selections and by far, the best item on the smoker is the ribs. The thready texture of their well-cooked and smokey rib meat is delightfully seasoned and juicy. Be ready to get your hands dirty. The other highlights worth mentioning: A perfectly cooked and sliced at your request sirloin, a pork chop to be reckoned with, chopped beef to contend with the rest of them, and really moist and juicy chicken.

Don't forget the sides. The grilled corn off the grill is warm and comforting, but skip the butter bath when it is offered. Try the cornbread salad just to see if you like it - Hard Eight claims that it could be a complete meal in itself. The potato salad is a step ahead the familiar yellow-twinged kind that you found at every family picnic, is it fennel seed or mustard? You tell me. If you are a fan of vinegar slaw, which I am, skip their cole slaw. I do not enjoy a creamy slaw without any acid.

Why is it that barbecue demands acid on the palate? There is nothing like that taste. I fulfill this need with the crispy cookiecutter bulk bought pickles - the completely man-made processed product that I never feel guilty about indulging in.

The perfect ending to this endeavor is the velvety texture and fresh taste of the banana pudding. All the other desserts pale in comparison. Bon appetit!

sick

hey.

I am not proud of it.

I am sick.

Addicted, even.

There is no excuse.

There are parts of me that are sick. My computer was a little bit ill. There are posts that await, and I was without my electronic diary. The conclusion of my culinary pilgrimage awaits, and my computer was having an affair with the geek squad at my favorite blue and yellow electronics store. A word to the wise, smit fraud is a nasty virus that you don't want to catch.

There is no answer, only reformatting. There is no escape, only the clean slate.

There is only the erased data and the empty landscape of my desktop. I love and hate clean slates. Who doesn't?

I am not proud of what I turn to. There is no excuse. At least I plated some of it. There are times when all of us need to hike down the avenue of our favorite meal for comfort... but here I am. It's okay - you have to see this side of me.

Here I am.

It's not hard. Tonight I stayed at the office until the sun went down, so that just opens the door. I really jump at the chance for an excuse. The drive home lead to the same familiar thoughts about the refrigerator. What was in it? Would any of it make a meal? Would any of it require effort to prepare? I just couldn't leave that excel spreadsheet until it was done. I just love and loathe the data all at the same time. I didn't mean for it to end up this way, but I didn't fight it either.

I told you I was sick. Then came the movie. Oh, this next part is not for the faint of heart. It was a romantic comedy. Halfway through the manchego you realize that he really loves his friend all along. There is an uncomfortable fifteen minutes where they may not end up together. Oh, dear.

But, there is some truth here, just like the movie.

The meal I ate tonight consisted of cheese, crackers, raspberries, grapes, dried apricots, cornichons, and prosciutto. A little old and cured and a little fresh and new. A little sweet and a little sour. Oh, and the half bottle of red wine. You have to have something to wash it all away.

I told you I was sick. It is not all pretty. Some days are gourmet and some days are not.

travelogue part 2

The roots...

Who was it, do you think, that first pulled a root out of the ground and said "I bet I could eat that"? They must have been ravenous.

There are some fruits and vegetables that are naturally appealing. Imagine the symmetrical pleasing shape and smooth texture of soybeans, for example. If you can't eat them, then I just might wear them for earrings. Berries, freshly picked, or even a tomato, bursting at the seams with summery moisture and acidic flavor - these seem to be natural sources of food. However, when you take something ugly and alien, and make it delicious, you have gone in another direction entirely.

There are plenty of seemingly odd foods in the grocery store now. But the practice of boiling, baking, or frying a potato is no longer pushing the envelope. Besides a double-dog dare, I don't know if there are many times where I have eaten something I wasn't quite sure about, before my trip. Before the pilgrimage, everything I have eaten resembled food. (Let's not talk about those chicken nuggets.)

As we all know, the first part of food that you experience is how it looks on the plate. That is why I prefaced my next anecdote with this nod to good looks. All the plates at Ubuntu were more than pleasing to the eye. They were artfully presented. They were also thoughtfully planned and masterfully executed. What may have looked like unfamiliar territory quickly flowed into a naturally progressing and complete meal.

The menu (with wines in italics)

amuse bouche
SHISO ice, regina olive oil, maldon salt
carta da musica, ROOTS, burrata

blackened MELON with BASIL & avocado
HOT PEPPER vinegar, sinskey’s kieffer lime, agua fresca
chateau lascaux rose, languedoc ,france, 2007

chickpeas a la catalan
red pepper tears, MINT, romesco, TOMATO toast
zaca mesa viognier, santa ynez valley, 2006

potato gnocchi with CIPPOLINI crème fraiche
GREY SHALLOTS roasted in their skin, LADY APPLE
havens albarino, carneros, 2007

SUMMER SQUASH scented with our vadouvan spice
FICOIDE GLACIALE, beer-battered BLOSSOMS
robert stemmler pinot noir, carneros, 2005

poached domaine de la chance egg with morels
porcini financier, NEW ZEALAND SPINACH, smoked corn
long meadow ranch cabernet sauvignon, napa, 2003

“o’ henry” peach poached with LEMON VERBENA
champagne sabayon, nectarine, wild fennel almonds
pope valley , late harvest chenin blanc, napa,2006

vegan carrot cupcakes with tiny candied CARROTS

baby lady apples with BAY LEAF caramel and our granola

I have never tasted shiso before, or baby lady apples. I have never thought to sample a leaf from the focoide glaciale plant, although that one I hadn't seen before. But it is really not about about what I didn't have before I got there, it is about what I carried away when I left. I tasted the hillsides in Napa through the innovative chefs at Ubuntu. The local farms that provide the ingredients also provided me with an unforgettable experience. I don't want to be shocked by my food, but I relish the rare experience of the new and different in an unforced environment. Naturally.

More dirt: Honorable mentions from the plant kingdom

1. The truly sumptuous truffle oil fries at Fog City Diner

2. The meatiness of the squash blossoms on the flatbread and balanced and crispy fried green beans at Coco 500 pleasantly surprised me

3. "I'm sorry this took so long, we had to pick some more mint from the garden" Southern Belle at Julia's Kitchen (vodka, lemonade, cucumber and MINT).

4. The briny and delicious olives from Oakville Grocery

5. The cucumber gimlet at Cortez

oh, travelogue - my culinary pilgrimage

Where do I even begin?

What was my latest journey, you ask?

Well, perhaps I have been distracted by the journey through the move. The journey into the boxes, and into the new house. The journey into fresh paint and sticky packing tape. The journey into a new kitchen... but that is another story. I am afraid to tell you... there has been little cooking in the new house. Just cooking up ideas and reading up on another journey.

San Fran. Frisco. What better place to begin a new chapter of the ravenous Texan? Arguably the culinary capital of the United States, San Fran is home to some of the best meals I have had all week (and all year!), so this is where I will begin this new portion of the blog. The part where I will tell you what I think of food that I did not cook.

Highlights from a culinary pilgrimage in descending order:

Hog Island Oyster Bar

Bouchon in Yountville

Ubuntu in Napa

Coco 500 in Soma

Delica in the Ferry Building

Fog City Diner

Rye

Julia's Kitchen at COPIA

The Ambassador

The Cortez Bar at the Adagio Hotel

Market Bar

The Clift Hotel (if I am cool enough)

the Sangria at Cha Cha Cha (skip the food)

How should I dissect this list? Shall I separate it into drink and food? They are both culinary journeys of course. Should I go through each meal in detail, recounting every taste and smell? Nah. I will tell you the parts that I savored.

The parts that made me close my eyes and say "remember this."

Those parts are here, and if you want more of them, you can look at them on this page where I have begun posting pictures.

Part 1

The icy cold and slippery saltiness of the oysters consumed on my trip may cause me to start looking for more coastal employment. What is brine anyway? Did you know that most oysters actually call more brackish water their home? Why do some grow to be so large and fatty, and some stay so neat and tidy in their shell? These are not the things I think about when I think about an oyster. I think about being a mermaid.

In another lifetime, if you believe in all that, I was a mermaid. I was not one of those animated mermaids that made friends with all the fish. I was a mermaid who went looking through all the oyster beds for every last one. No pearls, tabasco, cocktail sauce, or crackers, thanks. Just Kumamotos, Sweetwaters, maybe some Malpeques. Just make sure its cold and that there is a slice of lemon lying around somewhere. I have not always been a purist. I have also not always written about the food I eat. You learn when you dissect.

Plenty of peeps that came before me have given their shout out to the oyster:

I don't know if he was an aficionado, but Lewis Carroll made an impression on me as a young oyster pursuer. Perhaps it was the anthropomorphic oysters that pleaded for their life with no success against such foes as the walrus and the carpenter. What a sad and happy tale all at the same time.

"An oyster leads a dreadful but exciting life..." - MFK Fisher

"Secret, and self-contained, and solitary as an oyster." - Charles Dickens (from A Christmas Carol)

"He was a bold man that first eat an oyster." - Johnathan Swift (coming from him!)

So, I will not be so bold as to say that I am one of the founders of the Oyster Fan Club. I know there are many who have come before. I am just standing in line, waiting for my membership card.

Perhaps it is all the sea that we cannot drink that is filtered through this perfect specimen of

muscle. Perhaps it is the noble life it leads to get us there, pumping and pumping...filtering and syphoning to get us to that sweet and salty kiss, so creamy and crisp all at the same time. Maybe that is why I adore them so.

The perfect marriage

Souffles are a lot like marriage... They are difficult at times. They require patience and preparation. They are very rewarding. They can be sweet or savory. They can be dramatic and exciting. They can be light and fluffy. They can be crusty around the edges. They are fragile and should be treated delicately at times. They can even fail or fall.

But a good souffle is the perfect marriage between two lucky ingredients: (1) Eggs, beaten like the dickens, and (2) A thick, well-seasoned base. The perfect marriage can be achieved, and especially when your inspiration is cheese, oh, is it lovely...


The Perfect Marriage of Eggs and Cheese
(Otherwise known as a Gruyere cheese souffle)

- butter, room temperature for greasing container
- grated Parmesan, about 1/4 cup or less
- 3 tablespoons butter
- 3 tablespoons flour
- 1 teaspoon mustard
- pinch of salt
- 1 1/3 cup of milk
(Alton Brown says the milk should be hot, and I suppose it helps).
- 4 large egg yolks
- LOTS of shredded Gruyere cheese (about 6-8 ounces)
- 5 egg whites
- 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar (if you are using a copper bowl to beat your eggs, you do not need this.)

First, most chefs recommend that with a cheese souffle, you generously butter the inside of your chosen souffle dish and coat it with dry breadcrumbs or grated Parmesan cheese. Uh... I chose cheese.

Cover this souffle dish with plastic wrap, or my favorite, press and seal, and stick it in the refrigerator or freezer for about 5 minutes (to help set the cheese and butter in place).

Turn your oven on to preheat to 375 degrees. (350 if you are making individual ones).

Okay, so some would say that your flavorful base is a bechamel sauce. I don't know if it always qualifies for other souffles, especially dessert souffles, but it seems to fit the bill here. It also makes me feel oh so Frenchy to make a bechamel and souffle at the same time. Thank you very much.

So, the bechamel... it starts by heating the butter in a saucepan whisking constantly so it does not start to brown or burn. Add the flour, dry mustard, and salt and whisk well. Turn the heat up and let this cook for about 2 minutes. Continue to whisk while the mixture simmers, and until it is thick and smooth. These seem like vague terms, but you can tell when you bechamel takes on a new identity. It is subtle, but it is there...

Take this off the heat and add in Gruyere. The mixture will become very stiff. Beat in the egg yolks one at a time. Set this aside.

Using a handy hand-mixer (to allow for maximum froth and flexibility) whip the egg whites and cream of tarter. Beat, whisk, and generally whip the eggs until they no longer resemble eggs. They will become frothy and form peaks when you pull out the whisk. See left.

Now, move quickly here, but do not get too crazy with your eggs. Treat them delicately (see marriage comparison above) as they are infused with air, and you do not want to burst their bubble.

Slowly combine the cheesey base to the egg mixture. Gently fold the mixture together in a bowl and then pour the mixture into the souffle pan. For drama, fill it closer the top. I left about a 1/2 inch. Place the souffle pan on a baking sheet and cross your fingers for about 35 minutes.

For the life cycle of a souffle, see below.

For the life cycle of a marriage, well, that one is another story...

It all started with onions.

It was an innocent beginning. A sweet Texas onion... we Texas ladies know what that means. A Vidalia onion is not a mean onion. If you invited a Vidalia onion to tea it would behave. I mean, really.

If I were a Vidalia onion, I would talk like Juuuulia Roberts in Steel Magnolias. If I were a Vidalia onion, I would be gentile. But somehow I got a wild one.

But, really, let's be serious. I can't chop a shallot or a chive without this kind of reaction. My eyes are tearing up as I type this. It's the sulfur. That is what they tell me anyway.

That's why I am not sure I am cut out for this recipe. I am not cut out for the pain. I really can't take it. I frequently have to leave the kitchen. I do this great maneuver where I press the backs of my hands against my closed eyelids in search of relief and let out a little gasp... Is it worth it? Really? Yes, if you are making the all-time tastiest turkey meatloaf, it is worth it.

My favorite meatloaf

- Olive oil (let's eyeball it, but about a tablespoon)
- 1 tbsp butter
- 1 1/2 cups minced onions (oh, the pain!)
- minced garlic (a tablespoon? eh, try two)
- 1 tspn dried oregano
- 1 tspn dried thyme
- 1/2 tspn ground allspice
- 3/4 cup heavy cream
- 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 pounds of ground turkey
- 1 cup fine bread crumbs
- 2 eggs, lightly beaten
- 1/4 cup minced fresh italian parsley (this means the flat-leaf kind)
- 3 tbspn ketchup
- 1-2 tbspn salt
- 1-2 tbspn pepper


Put the olive oil and butter in a skillet and let butter melt on medium to low heat. When it is all melty and yummy, add the onions and garlic and stir... when the onions look clear or translucent, you are ready for the next step. Add the dried herbs and the allspice, plus the heavy cream. Let this simmer a little, but keep stirring. This picture to the left is where we started...


Step 1 in the picture right below here is where we go next... Let it simmer until it looks like oatmeal and most of the liquid has been reduced out. When the consistency is right, set it aside and let it cool. When it is cool, add the ground turkey, bread crumbs, eggs, parsley, ketchup, salt and pepper. Mix well. Go ahead, get your hands dirty.

Preheat the oven to the old faithful 350 degrees.

Bake this in a loaf pan until an hour has passed. I was able to make it stretch to two pans...
It doesn't sound or look that exciting. But this, my friend, is the holy grail of meatloaf. You try it, and let me know.
















Why or why would you serve meatloaf without mashed potatoes as a side? While you are at it, what about a shitake mushroom gravy? It's easy. Combine 1/2 cup stemmed and thinly sliced shitake mushrooms, 2 cups of chicken stock and 2 beef bouillon cubes crumbled in hot water. Let this simmer for a long while until it resembles au jus or gravy. mmmmmmm.

Keep it simple, stupid.

I love to cook. I love to add a dash of this, and a little of that. I like to be spontaneous. I like to "eyeball it" as my mother says. Who doesn't? What is fun about being a slave to other people's recipes? Nothing.

But you know what is nice sometimes? Simple and sweet. There is nothing as splendid as a simple vanilla, vanilla cupcake.

There are many cupcake recipes out there. There are uber chic new cupcake bakeries popping up everywhere. Sprinkles. Sugarbabies. The Cookie Jar. There are countless cupcake recipes and new cupcake cookbooks. There is one bakery in New York that made the original crazy good, uber chic cupcake. This recipe is from there.



Magnolia Bakery Vanilla Cupcakes

- 1 1/2 cups self-rising flour
- 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
- 2 cups sugar
- 4 large eggs, at room temperature
- 1 cup milk
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Line two 12-cup muffin tins with cupcake papers.

In a small bowl, combine the flours. Set aside.

In a large bowl, on the medium speed of an electric mixer, cream the butter until smooth. Add the sugar gradually and beat until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.

Add the dry ingredients in three parts, alternating with the milk and vanilla. With each addition, beat until the ingredients are incorporated but do not overbeat. Using a rubber spatula, scrape down the batter in the bowl to make sure the ingredients are well blended. Carefully spoon the batter into the cupcake liners, filling them about three-quarters full.

Bake for 20–25 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted in the center of the cupcake comes out clean. Cool the cupcakes in the tins for 15 minutes. Remove from the tins and cool completely on a wire rack before icing.

Makes about 2 dozen cupcakes

Vanilla Buttercream Icing

- 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
- 6 to 8 cups confectioners’ sugar
- 1/2 cup milk 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Place the butter in a large mixing bowl. Add 4 cups of the sugar and then the milk and vanilla. On the medium speed of an electric mixer, beat until smooth and creamy, about 3-5 minutes. Gradually add the remaining sugar, 1 cup at a time, beating well after each addition (about 2 minutes), until the icing is thick enough to be of good spreading consistency. You may not need to add all of the sugar, but it sure is good if you do. (This is the bakery's recipe and I have to say, I added a bit of flour in the end so I could add some thickness. You can't have the icing too runny... that's not cute.)

The resulting cupcakes are so dense and moist, that it almost makes you want to quit your day job and bake all day. Almost... if you like that kind of thing.